Showing posts with label apple compote. Show all posts
Showing posts with label apple compote. Show all posts

Apple season – Low-sugar Apple Jam and all the other ways we used up our (hundreds of) cooking apples


Part of the reason I didn’t write much on here towards the end of last year was because I got hung up on a blog I was writing about cooking apples. We had a bumper crop and found so many ways to use them up, I just couldn’t find the time to write it all down. It’s far too late now, of course, but in anticipation of more apples next year, here goes.

Over the last couple of years I’ve made jars and jars of chutney using various recipes such as Beryl Wood’s simple apple and walnut recipe and my favourite, Alys Fowler’s green tomato chutney. But I still have plenty of jars in the cupboard, so this time around we were on the hunt for alternative ways to use up our glut. I don't know the variety of apples growing on our tree. I've checked against online identification charts and there are so many varieties growing in the UK, it could be anything. If anyone can identify them I'd love to know.


The first recipe we tried out, which worked brilliantly with the early windfalls, was Bircher muesli. I must confess that Seb made most of the muesli, diligently peeling and grating apples every other night to make enough muesli for the next few mornings. And it’s delicious. There’s not much to it – simply grate some cooking apples into a bowl, mix with porridge oats and yoghurt and leave overnight to soften. You can add all sorts of other ingredients to mix it up – we added raisins with the apples, banana slices and extra yoghurt in the morning. It makes a really simple but delicious summer breakfast, plus we were making our own yoghurt (more of that in another post), so all in all it worked out as a really cheap, healthy breakfast.

I’ve described in another post how Seb made our apple compote. This is still going strong as we froze a lot of it and it’s great for topping yoghurt for dessert, for porridge and muesli, and for adding to savoury meals that need a hit of something sour and sweet, like my scallop galettes. It’s super simple – just peel, core and chop a few apples and cook down in a pan with a sprinkling of sugar for a few minutes until the apples are soft. Easy as that and a great one for children because there’s plenty of fruit with only a small amount of sugar (although you can heap the sugar in if that’s your preference).

An unexpected use I found for some of the grottier apples was for sourdough starter. Between holidays and work I lost a couple of starters this year and had to start again from scratch. I usually use flour and water and feed for a few days until my starter comes to life, but this time I added a grated apple to the mix and the starter was starting to bubble a day later. It’s a much faster method than just waiting for a starter to get going by itself and it saved me plenty of flour. I know you can use raisins and various other fruit for this, so grab whatever you have to hand. It really does work.


But by far the best use of our apples last year was for Apple Jam. Particularly in the early part of the season, there’s so much pectin in the apples that they turn to jam with barely any boiling, so we often had sweet, tasty jam within 10 minutes of adding it to the pot. Later in the season it took a little longer for the jam to set, but not as long as it would do for other fruit. I’m at a loss as to why the shops aren’t full of apple jam; it was that easy and made a sweet, tasty jam that’s delicious spread on wholemeal bread with a slick of butter.

We also experimented with sugar content and found that the pound for pound, or sometimes three-quarters sugar to apples, ratios preferred by traditionalists really isn’t necessary. The sugar keeps the jam from spoiling, but as long as we sterilised our jars properly and kept them in the fridge once opened, they kept perfectly well. We still have lots of jars sitting in the cupboard waiting to be opened that haven't spoiled at all.

To sterilise your jars, wash them in hot soapy water and leave to drain dry, or run them through a hot dishwasher cycle, or fill with boiling hot water, or place in a hot oven for 10 minutes. Make sure you sterilise the lids and spoons, too.

Here’s our recipe.

Low-sugar Apple Jam

cooking apples, peeled, cored and chopped
preserving sugar

You will need
sterilised jars

Weigh the prepared apples and put them in a pan over a medium heat with a third of the weight of sugar (e.g. 600g apples would need 200g sugar). You can add a few cloves at this point, but we didn’t bother. (I think the cloves counter the sweetness in traditional recipes, but with the reduced sugar this wasn’t a problem for us.)

Cook down until soft and mushy, stirring often. This took anything from 5 to 15 minutes, although traditionally you would cook the apples for an hour.

Transfer to sterilised jars, seal and leave to cool.



Beryl Wood’s apple and walnut chutney recipe can be found in Let’s Preserve It, published by Square Peg.
Alys Fowler’s green tomato chutney recipe can be found in My Edible Garden, published by BBC Books.


Brixton Galettes with Scallops, Bacon and Apple Compote



We’ve been in France again – such a chore with all that beautiful Breton countryside, good cheap wine and tasty galettes – and it seems to be working; Sidney, who has been happily announcing every apple that’s fallen into the garden over the last few weeks, proudly lifted one he’d found the other morning and declared pomme, like a good petit bonhomme.


It’s incredibly easy to underestimate children, particularly around the 18-month mark, when they take giant leaps in their understanding. The first time we realised Sidney understood commands he was, in fact, responding to French. Où sont tes chaussons, Sidney? Where are your slippers? He disappeared into the kitchen and duly returned, arms outstretched, slippers in hand.

It must be pretty confusing for a little person, eager to understand the words swimming around him and communicate his own in return. After all, we are asking him to understand not only ‘cockerel’ and ‘cock-a-doodle-doo’, but also le coq and cocorico. That’s twice as many words and sounds to take in and I’ve noticed that while in the spring he would say ‘dog’, and was trying to say ‘aeroplane’, as soon as we took him to France and switched to le chien and l’avion, he stopped giving them names completely.

It felt like a step backwards – though that is far too strong; he can take as long as he needs to start communicating in either language as far as we’re concerned – but, in the long run, he is so lucky to have these languages filtering into his brain at such a young age. I just hope he continues with both. I know a lot of children reject the second language as they get older and simply refuse to speak it.

Since Sidney was born, his dad has spoken to him almost exclusively in French while I, with my poor French skills, have spoken to him almost entirely in English. Seb did a lot of research before Sidney was born to find out how best to raise him with dual languages and there is a huge amount of information online, but it tends to boil down to either of two methods: one person–one language, i.e. I speak English, Seb speaks French; or we both speak French exclusively at home. Option B wasn’t really feasible for us and I was concerned that my family would feel alienated if we brought Sidney up speaking a different language. I hope my French skills will improve as Sidney gets older (all those French board books must be sinking in, right?) because friends of ours have admitted that their children’s desire to actually speak French improved dramatically once their English mother started speaking French at home. I guess we’ll see how it goes.

We are lucky in that several of Seb’s friends have young children around the same age, with whom Sidney will be spending his holidays and getting up to mischief throughout his childhood. Hopefully these friendships will inspire him to keep communicating in French. Meanwhile, I’ll just have to try to keep up!


So, galettes. Take a trip to Brittany and you’ll struggle to escape them. The Breton galette is a savoury version of a crêpe. It uses buckwheat flour and is usually stuffed with ham, cheese, eggs, mushrooms or, in this region, Andouille, a strong-flavoured French delicacy that you either love or hate: I’m with the latter.

Galettes are brilliant because children love them as much as adults do. The buckwheat gives them a satisfying nuttiness and the pancake crisps up at the edges while staying soft towards the centre where it takes on the flavours and juices of the stuffing ingredients.

Buckwheat is also a healthy alternative to wheat (it’s actually the seed of a plant related to rhubarb, rather than a grass); it’s packed with protein, gluten-free and has all sorts of other good things in it (trust Oprah). If you’ve ever had soba noodles or salmon blinis, you’ve had buckwheat, but you can also make porridge with it, gnocchi; you can even sprout the seeds and eat them raw.

One particular speciality of the region is a sweet scallop galette with creamed leeks and lettuce. I had one in the pretty medieval river port town of Saint-Goustan and the sweetness of the scallops and creaminess of the leeks against the savoury, crisp galette definitely did it for me. It made a refreshing change from the standard cheese-ham-egg combo.

I decided to experiment with the sweet/creamy/savoury thing when I got home. We’ve been making apple compote to use up some of the apples from the garden. It’s so simple to make: just peel, core and chop your apples, sprinkle with a little sugar (not too much) and heat in a pan until the apples are soft and the sugar is incorporated. It’s delicious with yoghurt for a refreshing dessert.

Here’s my recipe for Galette a la Brixton. I used the standard ratio for pancakes as a guide: 2-parts flour; 2-parts liquid; 1-part egg; ½-part butter, and just substituted buckwheat flour for plain. A top tip from my culinarily gifted French friend – beat the batter for a good 5 minutes before you rest it for at least 1 hour; it brings air into the slightly heavier buckwheat batter and letting it settle will give you a softer galette.

Brixton Galettes with Scallops, Bacon and Apple Compote

Makes 5 or 6

For the pancake
225g buckwheat flour
300ml milk
2 eggs
½ tsp salt
butter, for frying

For the filling – choose your own quantities
bacon rashers
scallops
apple compote
lettuce leaves
olive oil
balsamic vinegar
lemon juice
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sift the flour and salt into a bowl and add the eggs and milk. Beat with a whisk for a good 5 minutes and then cover and leave to rest in the fridge for at least 1 hour.

Warm some plates in the oven before you start cooking – some for the grown-ups and 2 to keep your ingredients warm while you’re cooking.

Melt a knob of butter in a large, heavy frying pan over a medium-high heat. Pour a ladleful of batter into the pan and swirl it around a bit to spread out the batter. Cook for a couple of minutes, until the bottom of the galette has a nice brown tinge to it. Flip it over and cook the other side. Transfer to one of your plates and keep warm in the oven. Add another knob of butter to the pan and cook the next galette, and so on.


Grill or fry your bacon until crisp at the edges, then transfer to one of your warmed plates. Tip the scallops into the pan to cook in the fat from the bacon. They’ll only need a couple of minutes each side, so keep an eye on them or they’ll quickly overcook. No one likes a rubbery scallop.

Take your galettes from the oven and slide them onto the warmed plates. Quickly spread with apple compote, lay the warm bacon over the top and then top with the cooked scallops.

Scatter lettuce leaves around the edges and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Squeeze some lemon juice over the top and season with salt and pepper. 


(For Sidney’s galette I used some leftover vegetables and cooked them with an egg, to make it easier for him to eat and to avoid too much salt.)


Voilà.

Useful info on strategies for raising bilingual children can be found here: